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Additional photo of flywheel before and after sanding. What do you think on the bearing is this something that could've been done pulling the tranny off or, this is something that failed during driving. Lastly, beginning to wonder if failed pilot bearing caused shaft to wobble inside the slave clutch tube, overheated it or mechanically damaged it somehow ultimately causing a leak that started this whole thing.
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Take a look at how I FOUND the bearing when I took the clutch off, a chunk is missing! Do you think I could've caused that damaged when I was removing the trans or is this something bad that was happening and got caught in time? Furthermore, kind helps explain bunch of metal dust around the input shaft (pictures in earlier correspondence of this post). IS THAT CORRECT?Ī little update, pulled the clutch off today and changed pilot bearing. If I get what you are saying bolts in orange have to be 30 ft/lbs and bolts in blue are 50 lbs.
#Honda s2000 clutch slave cylinder manual#
The manual calls it "transmission to engine" but if I'm getting it right it is actually BELL HOUSING to Engine. I wanted to clarify bell hosing to ENGINGE (see pictures below). Now, for the bolts, seems clear 30 ft/lbs for trans to bell housing. I got the transmission removed and indeed had to use few of those monster extensions plugged into each other. Thank you for a very detailed explanation. Shifter Hitting E-brake in Tunnel.jpgHi Dave, Regarding hitting on the passenger side I've used a bottle jack to drive a wooden wedge in to push the engine and tranny over to help that clear. You might also pull your windshield cowl off because the intake can hit it. Be aware that if you have headers with no flex pipes at the outer frame rails that engine tilting will be limited. Lowering the tail end of the tranny down a bit can help with the shifter to ash tray/e-brake issue. It can hit on the passenger side and the bottom of the ash tray/e-brake where the shifter is. There are some other things you might need to be aware of when removing the transmission. I used 400 on a DA when I have done mine. When I was browsing the manual for the torque values I saw where the official factory statement is 400 to 600 grit.
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what grit to sand it with if that's what you are doing. I use a 20" reg extension with a 10" wobble extension at the socket.Īnother topic that often gets discussed is what to do with the flywheel i.e. Access them 30" back near the tailshaft housing. If it hasn't been said yet you should have a 30" extension available for the top transmission bolts. I've taken many of these out and put them back in using those numbers so it's a pretty safe bet you can as well. In the clutch section they say to put the bellhousing back on but do not state the torque value either in that statement nor the torque list table. They also specifically state transmission to bellhousing 30 lb ft. They state 30 lb ft for 3/8 bolts and 50 lb ft for 7/16 bolts for transmission to engine. I looked in my 2001 factory service manual.